After so many years…
After many years of hard grind, it all seems worthwhile after reading such comments as these below. Even more so as I have great respect for Andrew Caillard MW, who has a great international palate. He is an extraordinary achiever himself, having written the monumental and definitive history of Australian wine. I highly recommend you read it – The Australian Ark (www.australianark.com)
“There are few wines in the world that bring anticipation and longing. Domaine de la Romanée-Conti does it for some. Giaconda does it for me. The latest releases of 2024 Giaconda Chardonnay and 2024 Giaconda Roussanne represent the genius of vineyard site, the pinnacle of winemaker Rick Kinzbrunner’s intellectual powers, family custodianship and a perfect growing season. These two remarkable wines of differing dimension and expression are both transcendent wines of extraordinary and beguiling quality. A monumental success that will have lasting impact on the reputation of fine Australian wine. Wonderful!” Andrew Caillard MW
Read Andrew’s full tasting notes >
Now for some news here at Giaconda. We haven't made Warner Shiraz for some years now and the last Estate Vineyard Shiraz will be from the 2025 vintage. Our Estate Shiraz vines have been grafted over to Roussanne and Chardonnay and there are two reasons for this:
- I now only want to make the best of the best, do less, and do it better. For the style of wine I like to drink, there is no comparable Chardonnay or Roussanne in Australia and very few Nebbiolo (and we are on an upward curve with this variety as these vines mature).
- Giaconda shines brightest for whites on the granite soils. In my opinion much of the Beechworth area shines brightest for whites also. In the right location, Nebbiolo could be exceptional and we have intentionally planted those vines at Red Hill Rd on a small pocket of deep red clay and shale.
I always make the analogy of a tree. You can be in the very top twigs with little foliage around you (Chardonnay, Roussanne and Nebbiolo) or a bit further down, still in the top branches but with more foliage around you (Shiraz).
Over the years we have made some great Shiraz here at Giaconda that can stand up with the best but contrary to the other three varieties mentioned, I feel there are many other great Shiraz out there so why bother. Regarding Pinot Noir, let's say this is an ongoing plaything, with new clones, a new part of the vineyard and we have now introduced additional rows to double the vineyard planting density. We expect that some fruit will be picked off these new vines from next season onwards.
During the release this year, there will be no Nebbiolo or Shiraz. The La Niña season during 2023 was a poor season for Nebbiolo (too cold and wet) and it will not be bottled. As we only have two remaining vintages of Shiraz to release, the 2024 vintage will benefit from an extra year in bottle.
The 2025 vintage wines are showing great potential in the cellar. They are all right up there with our usual standards. At long last, we will have a Nantua Chardonnay to release again next year and it looks exceptional. This will be a real mini-Giaconda Chardonnay from the 2025 vintage.
I feel very confident that the standard of these wines is better than ever. The efforts of Nathan, Casey and Guy enable us to have more attention to detail and give us more time and resources to improve the vineyard. No effort or expense is now spared in the vineyard and winery.
Read the current release tasting notes >
Salut,
Rick Kinzbrunner
Beechworth's Granite Cave
18 September 2013The granite cellar at Giaconda Vineyard is the latest project of exceptional winemaker, Rick Kinzbrunner. Nick Stock travels to Beechworth in search of chardonnay, a granite cave and a vision for the future of Giaconda.
Rick Kinzbrunner has an enigmatic presence. Tall, slim and considered, he also has a reputation as a bit of a recluse. It may seem unsurprising then that his latest construct at his Giaconda property in Victoria’s Beechworth, happens to be a cave.
“My goal was always to grow the wine in granite soil,” Kinzbrunner says of his newest cellar, drilled and blasted into the granite rock at Giaconda. For him, it is the last link in the chain of a terroir to which he is deeply endeared: vines grow in granite, their grapes fermented and matured in a granite cellar.
Underground, the physical conditions are vastly better for wine maturation than the previous above ground facilities. Naturally cooled, the air is humid and alcohol is more likely to lower over time in this high humidity than concentrate in the arid, evaporative environment up on the surface.
Kinzbrunner calculates that there will be an average nett loss of around 0.5% in finished alcohol in wines made in the cave rather than a gain of around 0.5% in above ground conditions. This means he is able to deliver full, rich and powerful chardonnay at levels of around 13% alcohol by volume, instead of the previous norm that fell around 14% and without employing mech-anical climate control.
“I’ve stuck to my guns, refined my style and the wines I’m making now are the result. It’s the traditional stuff that’s probably closer to what they were doing hundreds of years ago rather than what many people are doing now.” RK
He has seen instant results in terms of refining wine style and quality. The first wine to emerge having been totally vinified inside the granite cave is the 2010 Giaconda Chardonnay and if this wine is anything to go by, the assessment is accurate.
Kinzbrunner is not prone to exaggeration and as one of Australia’s most capable and experienced winemakers; he has little need to stretch the truth. “It’s the first wine I’ve made that I’ve been truly happy with,” he says, “the culmination of everything I’ve tried to do and wanted to achieve.” The 2010 chardonnay is easily the best rendition of his signature white wine to date and the 2011 is developing handsomely in its shadow.
The inspiration for the cave project stems from Kinzbrunner’s time working in California. However, the impetus to embark on its construction is born of his regard for the granite terroir at Giaconda and the desire to chase down the very best and most unique quality in the wines grown and made there. His focus in terms of winemaking is both narrowing and deepening.
Nick Stock, Alquimie, Edition One