McClay Rd Shiraz
This year's release sees our McClay Rd wines being available on mail order for the first time - a rare opportunity to secure our Shiraz at a bargain price. It is a blend of all our three Shiraz; Warner Vineyard, Estate Vineyard and the joint-venture wine with Chapoutier, into one wine under the McClay Rd label. Thus this release contains all our best Shiraz made into a more ready-drinking style with less time in barrel and lower proportion of new oak. I feel this wine is worthy of your attention and represents great value for money. In the past we have reserved this label for small quantities of "culled barrels" and released it only into the wine trade. This release being of a much larger volume, representing the only Shiraz we have from 2009, we decided to give the mail order the chance to purchase. Even though this wine can be drunk at an earlier stage it still has significant body and will have very good ageing potential.
In addition to the Shiraz we are also offering 2008 McClay Rd Cabernet. I always felt that although this wine was good it didn't seem quite good enough for our normal Giaconda Cabernet label and thus I downgraded it to McClay Rd. I sometimes wonder why I did this as all early tasting reports on this wine have been extremely positive. So to all Cabernet lovers, don't miss out as quantities of this wine are very limited.
Meanwhile, I am totally happy with the 2009 Giaconda Cabernet released here.
You will notice that there is no 2010 Ergo Sum en primeur release. The reason for this being that from now on Ergo Sum will be marketed separately from Giaconda. We made a decision anyway not to do an en primeur release as the quantities of 2010 are still quite small as the vineyard is still being developed, thus no Ergo Sum will be released until next year.
Probably the most exciting news is that we have finally released the 2008 Nebbiolo, which will be bottled after sitting in a large Italian Bota for nearly three years! I will leave it all to Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW of Robert Parkers Wine Advocate and you can read her tasting notes under the release information. This neurotic wine has taught me some new things about grape growing and wine making.
Last but not least come the comments on the 2010 vintage and wines. It came as a great relief to finally have a really model vintage again, beautiful weather conditions have given us some great wines. The Chardonnay represents almost exactly where I like to be with this variety - focused and characterful, highly refined and elegant. All the 2010 wines are the first ones to be totally aged in our new underground cave and their tightness and elegance reflects these great ageing conditions - stable low temperature and high humidity.
The Shirazes are rather European styled, powerful yet ethereal. The Warner Vineyard Shiraz now has an established reputation and I am excited to feel that the Estate Vineyard now with a small Viognier component is rapidly following in it's footsteps with the current release wine.
The Pinot Noir represents the culmination of our Beechworth and Yarra Valley blend, complex and interesting, an Australian with true Burgundian overtones. I feel this wine is much greater than the sum of its two parts.
Early indications are very good for the 2011 vintage as I have not seen such a beautiful cool and wet spring for many years. The vineyard and surrounding countryside is such a picture of health at the moment that along with many other farmers I feel a sense of optimism and happiness.
In a first for us I am pleased to offer with this release, 'Inside Burgundy', a book by Jasper Morris MW. Jasper is a friend and has been the Giaconda agent in the UK for many years, as well as living in and writing about Burgundy.
Regards,
Rick Kinzbrunner
Beechworth's Granite Cave
18 September 2013The granite cellar at Giaconda Vineyard is the latest project of exceptional winemaker, Rick Kinzbrunner. Nick Stock travels to Beechworth in search of chardonnay, a granite cave and a vision for the future of Giaconda.
Rick Kinzbrunner has an enigmatic presence. Tall, slim and considered, he also has a reputation as a bit of a recluse. It may seem unsurprising then that his latest construct at his Giaconda property in Victoria’s Beechworth, happens to be a cave.
“My goal was always to grow the wine in granite soil,” Kinzbrunner says of his newest cellar, drilled and blasted into the granite rock at Giaconda. For him, it is the last link in the chain of a terroir to which he is deeply endeared: vines grow in granite, their grapes fermented and matured in a granite cellar.
Underground, the physical conditions are vastly better for wine maturation than the previous above ground facilities. Naturally cooled, the air is humid and alcohol is more likely to lower over time in this high humidity than concentrate in the arid, evaporative environment up on the surface.
Kinzbrunner calculates that there will be an average nett loss of around 0.5% in finished alcohol in wines made in the cave rather than a gain of around 0.5% in above ground conditions. This means he is able to deliver full, rich and powerful chardonnay at levels of around 13% alcohol by volume, instead of the previous norm that fell around 14% and without employing mech-anical climate control.
“I’ve stuck to my guns, refined my style and the wines I’m making now are the result. It’s the traditional stuff that’s probably closer to what they were doing hundreds of years ago rather than what many people are doing now.” RK
He has seen instant results in terms of refining wine style and quality. The first wine to emerge having been totally vinified inside the granite cave is the 2010 Giaconda Chardonnay and if this wine is anything to go by, the assessment is accurate.
Kinzbrunner is not prone to exaggeration and as one of Australia’s most capable and experienced winemakers; he has little need to stretch the truth. “It’s the first wine I’ve made that I’ve been truly happy with,” he says, “the culmination of everything I’ve tried to do and wanted to achieve.” The 2010 chardonnay is easily the best rendition of his signature white wine to date and the 2011 is developing handsomely in its shadow.
The inspiration for the cave project stems from Kinzbrunner’s time working in California. However, the impetus to embark on its construction is born of his regard for the granite terroir at Giaconda and the desire to chase down the very best and most unique quality in the wines grown and made there. His focus in terms of winemaking is both narrowing and deepening.
Nick Stock, Alquimie, Edition One